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Issue: April 2013
Delhi Couture Week
The Autumn Winter 2013 edition of the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week was a mixed bag of design veterans and fresh talent. With over 115 designers showcasing their latest collections, there was a surfeit of variety and range in the designs. Amidst the clutter, Umesh Jivnani chooses the 10 best shows of this season, the absolute winners of 2013.
Tarun Tahiliani has always been synonymous with glamour and style. This season too he sent out another impactful and stylised collection. Inspired by his recent trip to the Maha Kumbh Mela, Tahiliani’s ‘Kumbhback Collection’ was fuelled by the drapes of sadhus. From layered coats, kurtas and gilets to his trademark draped and belted saris, it was an exotic line highlighted further by Rudraksha beaded jewellery. The colours signified Kumbh—rust, saffron, amber and hints of black and pink. Tarun also showed strong and exciting menswear with dhotis and loose pants with fitted achkans and kurtas.
Sometimes it takes years for a designer to blossom. Anju Modi is a shining example of someone coming into her own quite late in her career. For Autumn Winter 2013, her ‘Steel Magnolia’ collection beautifully combined embroidered and embellished jackets with earthy saris. She gave the collection a twist by revolving it around the Indian Armed Forces. Anju’s line stood out because of the details—embroidered topis, epaulettes on jackets, military-inspired badges, dupattas pleated and worn as sashes. Models walked the ramp to patriotic songs. Her menswear comprised striped sherwanis highlighted by military badges and medallions.
Pankaj and Nidhi's garments have an edge due to their technical finesse, superb execution and great quality. This time too they proved their mettle with their line titled The Music Box. It was a celebration of extraordinary craftsmanship combined with sharp tailoring and unusual colours. Fuchsia-navy, blue-blacks and red-chintz in merino wool, silk jersey and soft leather...the collection’s silhouettes included fitted long skirts, cinched waist jackets and fitted dresses. The highlights were the embellishments in crewel work, detailed appliques and lattice work.
Over the years, reticent designer Vineet Bahl has become known for his understated yet stylishly classy collections, with emphasis on easy chic silhouettes and tonal embroideries. This season, his ethnic line ‘Awadh’ paid tribute to the grandeur of the nawabs and begums. With lyricist Gulzar reciting poetry, models walked the ramp with their heads covered with exquisitely embroidered chikankari dupattas. Starting with an ivory palette, the line showcased stunning mirrorwork embroidery, exquisite zardozi, detailed hand-block printing and beautiful ‘naqsh’ work. The heavy zardozi velvet kurtas worn with wide-legged Pakistani salwars were high on impact.
Manish Arora's was the grand finale show at the WIFW and was inspired by the Burning Man in Nevada. The show began with cloudy blue sky digital printed dresses with neon motifs and geometric funky patterns. Laser cut materials, sequin embroideries, beads, metallic chains, fur collars and printed accessories like iPad cases, pouches and hobo bags added drama to the peplum dresses, fitted shirts, oversized tops, coats and fitted pants. Moulded leather turbans, corset belts, silk and cashmere scarves and digital printed handbags further enhanced this psychedelic collection. The colour palette ranged from navy blue, green and black to hot pink, fluorescent orange and neon green, while the varied fabrics ranged from cotton velvet, nappa leather, saga fox fur to quilted neoprene.
Read more in the April 2013 issue of Hi! BLITZ – the no.1 Lifestyle magazine.
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